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Training Pinch Grip Strength for Climbing. Are dead hangs the right way to do...
Versión en español (Translation from the Spanish original published on December 28, 2012)While I wrap up the lock-off series that we started months ago, we are going to have a look at an issue that a...
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Redpoint Anxiety: What stresses you out? (II)
Versión en españolContinuing from the previous entry, here there are some additional sources of stress: How imminent the event is As the challenging situation draws closer, anxiety tends to...
View ArticleSome Finger Training Instructional Videos
I have just uploaded some videos to youtube that I hope will help you to get the most out of your dead hang workouts.1- Dead hang Training (1 of 6): The Effort Level (EL) for Maximum Strength 2- Dead...
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Lock-off training in Sport Climbing (V). Goal-based Exercise Proposals.
Versión en españolAfter this long and verbose chain of entries, now it's time to wrap up the series by putting forward some exercises that attend to each particular objective. But first we will go over...
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Redpoint Anxiety: Coping Strategies (I)
Versión en españolJust as we said in the previous entry, we are going to talk about some coping strategies that are used to face redpoint anxiety or adjust it.The term coping strategies was defined by...
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Redpoint Anxiety: Coping Strategies (II)
Versión en español After reading the question that the previous entry raised, some of you may find it hard to pick just one of the suggested answers; perhaps you would opt for one or another depending...
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Redpoint Anxiety in Climbing: Coping Strategies (III)
Versión en españolLuis Alfonso Félix. El calvario del sicario, 8c/+, Cuenca (Spain). Photo: JaviPecSome authors have tried to define what the most frequently used coping strategies in sport are (have...
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Why we need to train Local Aerobic Endurance: Let the Numbers Talk
Versión en español (original del 31 diciembre de 2010)I'll try to answer this question with data gathered in a field study that I'm carrying out with the aim of finding in a scientific manner the basis...
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About All-Female Climbing Events...
Versión en españolI've never been much into "women-only" events. As a climber, being in the company of other women wasn't something I needed to improve my motivation or my performance, and I tended to...
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Objectives and Bases for Designing an Endurance Training Program in Sport...
Versión en españolAs it was hinted in the previous entry, to perform at certain routes or climbing spots we need to train one kind of endurance that French climbers call continuité (continuidad in...
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Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (I). Physiological...
Versión en españolUp to 35 minutes to climb a previously tried route.In occasions, up to 1 hour to onsight a route.Most sport climbing routes take between 8 and 25 minutes.(Data from a study of my...
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Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing: Capacity (II). Training Load...
Versión en españolp, li { white-space: pre-wrap; } 1. Objectives for Developing Capacity (also known as ARC)a) Basic objective:Accumulate during the training session many minutes staying on the wall,...
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Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing. Capacity (III): Training Methods
Spanish versionI- Overview1.1. Basic rulesThe two methods we are going to discuss have the following rule in common: stay for a long time on the wall, climbing at a low intensity.1.2. RhythmUniform,...
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Aerobic Endurance Training in Sport Climbing. Capacity (IV): Periodization...
Versión en españolAfter looking at the methodology in the previous post, I would like to end this series about Training Capacity (also known as ARC) by presenting some examples of load progression: a)...
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Complex Timer: A Training app for Climbing
Versión en españolAs you know, for some Endurance training methods like Extensive Interval Training or Intermittent Dead-hangs/ Repeaters, several nested countdowns are needed.After years of trying...
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Intermittent Dead Hangs Programs for Your Smartphone
Spanish versionIt's been a while since I last updated this blog, and I've finally decided to do it for two reasons:The first and foremost is the need to clarify some aspects that seem to generate a bit...
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Why do intermittent dead hangs?
Versión en españolAs promised, here you have the first entry in this new intermittent dead hangs series. It will serve as an introduction before delving into my research. Even though my last work was...
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Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. Which 8-week...
Versión en españolThe previous entry was a first look at the Intermittent dead-hangs training method. There I explained why I chose that name over Repeaters and presented the INTRODUCTION to the first...
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Abstract of my article studying the effect on finger endurance of Max Hangs...
Versión en españolAs I advanced a couple of days ago through social media, I'm happy to announce that past January one of my latest research articles was accepted for publication in The Journal of...
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Fingerboard training guide (I). Preliminary evaluation
Versión en españolWe have already talked extensively about how, why and what effects do Maximal Hangs (MaxHangs) and Intermittent Hangs (IntHangs) have on grip endurance and strength. What follows is...
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Fingerboard Training Guide (II). Maximal grip Strength and Endurance Methods...
Versión en españolI. The current state of affairs: Preliminary EvaluationThis topic was addressed in the first part of this series. You can read it here.II. Methodology2.1. Naming Conventions and...
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Fingerboard Training Guide (III). Program design and Periodization of...
Versión en españolPrevious entries:I. Dead-hangs training guide. Preliminary evaluation.The first blog entry in this series. If you need a refresher, here it is.II. Methodology The methods, naming...
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Review of the Climbro Smart Hangboard
Versión en españolIt's more than one year now that I received the Climbro smart hangboard for its review. So fortunate that the climbing researchers Michael Michailov, Jiri Balas and their team...
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Happy Fingers app for Android. An interactive e-book to learn about Finger...
In the middle of the rush for applying AI (Artificial Intelligence) and Machine Learning to training apps, #Happy Fingers wants you, rather than the machine, to be the one that actually learns...
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